Andean caravan: crossing the Andes to the rhythm of the Altiplano mules.

Bolivia, discover this 19-day trip

Mountain Nature Adventure Sport Eco Historical

Caravane Andine Traversée des Andes au rythme des mules de l'Altiplano

Trip Description

Meet at the "base camp" on calle Illampu, above the chicken seller. There is a Swiss man, who has always lived in La Paz, who rents all kinds of mountain equipment. This shop, a real bazaar of trekking, climbing, and bivouac gear, known only to insiders, is a testament to the culture of trekking and the great adventure brought by the Cordillera Real. We take to the road alongside the muleteers, with whom we will lead our mule caravan for a crossing of the Andes. We set out in search of wide open spaces, in search of encounters, discoveries, and of ourselves. We dare to expose ourselves to the unexpected. The elders of Terra did the "Transcordillera" from Sorata to Huayna Potosi for ten years, that is, the longitudinal crossing of the Cordillera Real. It offers an impressive collection of passes over 5,000 meters in altitude, with frequent crossings from the Yungas side (humid, steep, lush) to the Altiplano side (dry, gently sloping, mineral). A demanding, performance trek, which we like to call the "Dad's trek." So today, we are evolving, we cross the Andes with a simple elevation profile and only one pass. The Cordillera Real is above all a territory, "of peoples and mountains" and, better than a series of sporting feats, we tell you the story of this massif. Guided by our mule caravan, faithful travel companions and former means of transport for the Aymaras and Incas who used to trade their dried llama meat and dehydrated potatoes for fruits and products from the Amazon, we walk on the high plateaus, at the foot of the snowy glaciers of the Cordillera Real. We challenge a 6,000-meter summit, Huayna Potosi, with the real sensation of being at the crossroads of worlds: the Andes range stretching as far as the eye can see to the west, the illuminated city of La Paz to the south, and, on clear days, the summit of Sajama as a backdrop, as well as the beginnings of the Amazon to the north. We descend towards the lush vegetation of the Yungas. The temperature rises, the air is humid and the landscapes are green. On the way, we will stop a little to share Andean life with the ambition to feel and understand this territory so unique in the world, crossroads of the Aymara, Quechua, and Spanish worlds. We will be welcomed by our guides, our muleteers, our travel companions. We will meet the fishermen of the minor part of Lake Titicaca, who have managed to make their environment a wealth by making boats from totora, reeds from the lake's shores. We will learn to cultivate the fields of the Altiplano and to live at more than 4,000 meters in altitude. Jaime and his son Denys, natives of the Cordillera, are experts in bare-handed fishing in frozen streams and in the technique of dehydrating potatoes. The history of the massif will be told to us by our guides: one region, one guide. In each place, a local from the area will accompany us. On the way, we will exchange, share and, like a meditative ritual, we will rediscover what surrounds us. While walking, we will find ourselves dreaming, reinventing ourselves, as if carried by the magic of the Altiplano. We may lack a little sleep, but nothing else. We will try a simpler and more sober life, centered on the Earth and on the need to rethink our environment and our daily lives.

Accomodation

No accomodation information available

Stay program

day 1
El Alto Airport - La Paz
We arrive in La Paz via El Alto, enough to immediately plunge into a crowd and a complete change of scenery! We jump into a taxi to cross this giant market and stop at the first cable car station. We gain some height to realize what La Paz really looks like: this city spread out in a sort of immense crater. Small colorful “casas” as far as the eye can see, markets everywhere... The cabins fly above this chaotic, lively atmosphere, with the snow-capped peaks of Huayna Potosi and Illimani (iconic Bolivian glaciers over 6000 m high) as a backdrop. We stop at Sopocachi, just a stone's throw from the bustling center. We love strolling through the quiet streets of this little bohemian neighborhood of La Paz. We find little shops, small bars that are worth stopping at. We will have a coca mate at the Sopocachi market, the sacred and traditional drink, the remedy for altitude sickness. And the yapa, that is, the little extra offered by the vendor, because here you always “yapa” a good customer. You spend the night at Casa del Monticulo.
day 2
La Paz
We set off for a day of exploration in La Paz. We walk through the streets of Sopocachi, heading towards the center, with a short "fresh fruit juice" break at the Sopocachi market and a "salteña" along the way. The salteña is the 11am snack for Bolivians, a small pastry filled with chicken or beef in its juice. The challenge: to eat it, without cutlery, without getting dirty... A mixed and contrasting city, La Paz is the perfect sample of an entire country. From the market district, full of colors and smells, you cross a few streets to find yourself in the heart of the historic district, now a business center. Two worlds that coexist 200 meters apart and whose only common point is the permanent and noisy chaos that characterizes them. We have a mate de coca, or some leaves to chew on Sagarnaga. We cross the Mercado de Las Brujas, where we buy a miniature to please the Ekeko, the benevolent god of abundance. Tradition has it that you project all your hopes into the purchase of the coveted miniature object, which will then be ritualized. In the historic district, we take Jaen street, one of the last colonial streets in the city, with its cobblestones and colorful houses. We take the time to push open every door to discover small inner courtyards, galleries, the museum of musical instruments, and we meet Rosario. She talks to us about culture, clothing fashion, traditions, and invites us to try on her many cholita skirts (7 layered, it seems), revealing all their secrets to us. We have lunch at one of the communal tables in the market, among the Paceños. The choice of dishes is rich, and the smells of grilled meat with Aji sauce mix with those of fried foods and other spicy soups. We head to El Alto by cable car, flying over houses as far as the eye can see, peeking above inner courtyards, terraces where traditional clothes and dance costumes dry... Perched on the cliffside are the shamans who lead the offering ceremonies to Pachamama. Shall we venture to one of them to have our coca leaves read? We go back down through the general cemetery. Far from being scary or sad, this unique cemetery is lively, colored by large murals and decorated by the families of the deceased. Here, death is celebrated: people sing, dance, and make offerings to honor lost loved ones. This visit allows us to better understand Bolivian culture regarding its dead. We then pass through Calle de Los Andes, the street of carnival costumers, shops, and tailors. You could watch for hours the meticulous work of the Diablada mask makers. Further down, towards the market, you find custom hats, all kinds of jewelry, and cholita skirts. We hop into a collectivo to return to Sopocachi. For dinner, we will provide you with a list of restaurant suggestions, of all styles. In Bolivia, we are lucky to have varied and quality foods, and we eat well. It's simple, here products from the Amazon, the Yungas (tropical fruits and vegetables), products from the Altiplano (potato, quinoa, llama), meat from Beni, and products from Lake Titicaca all come together. The meal can be accompanied by a good local wine from Tarija with a high-altitude grape variety. You spend the night at Casa del Monticulo.
day 3
La Paz
We set off with our guide, jump into a local public transport (micro, mini-bus, truffi or taxi) and let ourselves be guided to the Ovejuyo district, at the entrance to the city of La Paz. We find ourselves at the start of a ridge separating La Paz and the Illimani Valley, a sacred mountain 6,439 meters high. A perfect playground to prepare our lungs for the altitude. We begin our walk at 3,850 meters above sea level, following the ridge that separates the two valleys. Very quickly, on the other side of the Illimani Valley, the sprawling geography of the Bolivian capital comes into view. In the middle of our path, we come across an "apacheta", a pre-Hispanic sacred monument dedicated to "Pachamama", Mother Earth, and the gods inhabiting the mountains. We can also observe the fantastic "Valle de las Animas", the valley of souls. After reaching the highest point of our day (4,220 m), we descend towards the "Muela del Diablo" (3,850 m), a huge rock formation nearly 300 meters high whose shape strangely resembles that of a human molar. Walking time: 4 h. Elevation gain: +350 m / -350 m. Altitude: 3,850 m. To start our trek preparations. Need equipment? Head to the base camp in the center, a real Aladdin's cave: there is something for every need and every style (especially retro!). In the evening, we have a good plate of pasta at home, reviewing the itinerary before a good night's sleep. You spend the night at Casa del Monticulo.
day 4
La Paz - Quewaya
Equipment: ready. Acclimatization: in progress. Thirst for adventure: at its maximum! We leave La Paz, its chaos, its giant market, to head to the shores of the minor part of Lake Titicaca, the starting point of our Andean epic. We are welcomed by Maria and Roberto, our guides for the day, with whom we learn traditional fishing on Lake Titicaca. The lake trout with llajwa sauce is a delight. You stay in a small inn run by the community.
day 5
Quewaya - Cojata
We begin our adventure with Lake Titicaca as our playground. It’s a beautiful first step to perfect our acclimatization, in the gentle air of the lake. We sail from Pariti Island to Suriki Island, where our guides for the day are the boat-making craftsmen. We end our day with a sunset as rare as they come, on the Cojata peninsula, where we will spend the night, welcomed by a family from the village. Walking time: 3h. Elevation gain: +300m / -300m. Altitude: 3800m. Boat Huatajata - Parati - Suriki - Huatajata 1d
day 6
Cojata - Peñas
Today we meet our travel companions, mules and muleteers, with whom we will share our journey. The job of a muleteer is difficult and meticulous. The trails are narrow and slippery, the loads can be heavy and destabilizing for the mules. We leave the lake for a different atmosphere: the high plateaus with pampa landscapes, where we are surrounded by fields of quinoa and potato plantations. The view opens up to reveal the Cordillera Real mountain range. Walking time: 6-7h. Elevation gain: +700m / -550m. Altitude: 3990m. You spend the night in a community shelter in the village of Peñas.
day 7
Peñas - Villa Andino
We live to the rhythm of the Altiplano, across fields, on the expanses of the high plateaus. A routine sets in. Each day, we methodically load and unload the mules, exchange food and experiences with our hosts, who become our guides for a day or an evening. We meet a family with whom we learn how to make straw mattresses, and spend the night at a llama breeder's home. Communication is not easy: Aymara is often spoken in these regions, but the desire to exchange and share is felt. With a bit of humor, we create unique moments! Walking time: 4-5h. Elevation gain: +300m / -100m. Altitude: 4200m.
day 8
Villa Andino - Tuni
Last day on the pampa, before entering the Cordillera Real. The vegetation becomes increasingly sparse and dry, the peaks and glaciers appear, with the condor wings of the Condoriri massif (5648m) to the west, and the imposing Huayna Potosi (6088m) to the east. We reach the village of Tuni, where Jaime and Marisol welcome us into their home, in this hamlet at 4,400 meters altitude, inhabited by about ten families. The coca mate break upon our arrival, the sacred and traditional drink, very good against altitude sickness, is always a special moment. We settle down, tired, with heavy legs, a hot drink in our hands. We relive the images and encounters of the day and get familiar with our new evening environment. The excitement for what awaits us the next day rises, even if, before that, we dream of our sleeping bag and a good hot water bottle. Walking time: 5h. Elevation gain: +350m / -250m. Altitude: 4400m.
day 9
Tuni
We decide the pace of our days, and we take the time to talk, to let ourselves be surprised by the unexpected, by encounters and by what we will learn from them. We spend the day within the Tuni community, who share with us their ancestral Aymara traditions, people of the high plateaus. No staging, no costumes, the Quispe family opens their doors to us and lets us live a few days with them, in all simplicity. We volunteer as kitchen assistants with Denys and Marisol. The specialty here is Huatia, a dish cooked in an oven dug into the earth. One of the main foods is chuño, a dehydrated potato. On the Altiplano, the soil and climate only allow some communities to harvest potatoes once a year. As a preservation method, the Andeans use, during the coldest months, a dehydration process to extract the starch from the potatoes. The taste is... peculiar, but the method is ingenious and we would do well to learn the technique. To complete our Andean meal, we go fishing in the icy rivers and lagoons, rich in trout. We take part in different tasks depending on the season and needs: making straw mattresses that will be sold in the area, collecting animal droppings for fuel in the houses. Shearing the llamas is a real challenge, a bit physical, with the first challenge being to immobilize the animal. With the spun wool, we will be able to learn weaving and making warm clothes, which are very appreciated in the mountains.
day 10
Tuni - Canal Field
The mules lead the way, and we move along the scree slopes and small mountain trails, among the high-altitude lagoons with deep blue waters, surrounded by the Imilla Apachita, Maria Lloco, and Huayna Potosi peaks. The elevation gain and altitude are felt, the pace is slower. Jaime is our guide for this stage; he preserves our energy and our breath. We arrive in the afternoon, in a small valley at the foot of the mountains, and we spend the evening at Doña Rosa's, where we prepare and share dinner. Walking time: 7h. Elevation gain: +650m / -360m. Altitude: 4700m.
day 11
Campo Canal - Huayna Potosi Refuge
Waking up in the early morning is a magical moment. We discover our nighttime refuge and the view it offers us, under a new light. It is difficult to emerge, because in the middle of the Andean winter, temperatures are low. But the spectacle, the view, the silence, the hot coffee motivate us. In the middle of the morning, we cross the Milluni pass (5,000 meters), and the valley of the same name opens up before us. The landscapes are lunar, and in the distance we see the Chacaltaya refuge, this former ski resort built on a former glacier that has now disappeared. Then, we go around the Huayna Potosi massif, before reaching the valley, which we follow to the refuge. Walking time: 5h. Elevation gain: +200m / -300m. Altitude: 4900m. You spend the night at the Huayna Potosí Refuge.
day 12
Huayna Potosi Refuge - Camp des Roches Refuge
It is a preparation day with our high mountain guide (UIAGM certified, trained by guides from Chamonix). We get familiar with our equipment, take a few steps with crampons and practice using the ice axe. We then head to Campo las Rocas, the starting point of our ascent. We spend the night at the refuge. High mountain atmosphere: we carefully prepare our gear, layer up to protect ourselves from the cold, eat, but not too much, mostly slow-release carbs. The pressure rises a bit, just enough to boost our adrenaline. Walking time: 2h. Elevation gain: +400m. Altitude: 5160m. You spend the night at the Campo las Rocas Refuge.
day 13
Roches Camp Refuge - Huayna Potosi Refuge
Waking up around 1 a.m., we get ready. Like a ritual, we check and re-check: one layer, two layers, even three layers of clothing, boots, harness, helmet on our head, ice axe on the bag and crampons inside. We set off, lit by our headlamps. Let's take a moment to stop in front of the starry sky. We take our place in the rope team, with our adventure partners, with whom we silently share our progress towards the summit. We move at our own pace, measure our steps, focus on our breathing, and let ourselves be carried by our rope mates, drifting with our thoughts. Upon reaching the summit, we are dizzy from the altitude, the effort, and the view that greets us at sunrise. We are at the crossroads of worlds: the Andes mountain range stretches as far as the eye can see to the west, the illuminated city of La Paz to the south, with, on a clear day, the summit of Sajama as a backdrop, and the beginnings of the Amazon to the north. It's not warm, so we don't linger. Our rope team begins the descent back to base camp, for a good hot meal, a short nap, and even a good night's sleep. Walking time: 8-9h. Elevation gain: +900m / -1400m. Altitude: 6088m. Level: Grade II/AD, Max 50°. You spend the night at the Huayna Potosí Refuge.
day 14
Huayna Potosi Refuge - Chucura
After a final pass, we leave the Huayna Potosi behind us to enter the Yungas. We begin a long descent into the plunging valleys of the Cordillera Real. The air becomes more humid and we gradually find greener, denser vegetation. We will be welcomed at the end of the day in the village of Chucura. Walking time: 6h. Elevation gain: +250m / -1250m. Altitude: 3800m.
day 15
Chucura - San Francisco
As we descend through subtropical vegetation, we pass through the village of Choro, where we have lunch at Doña Modesta's. Life in the valley is simple and sweet, people cultivate the land and live off what surrounds them. We reach the village of San Francisco at the end of the day, where we will be welcomed by a family from the valley. Tonight will be our last evening with our travel companions. Tomorrow, the mules and muleteers, with whom we formed our own Tolkien-like community, will head back to their mountains, their high Andean plateaus. Walking time: 7h. Elevation gain: +500m / -1800m. Altitude: 2,600m.
day 16
San Francisco - Chairo - Coroico
Another river crossing, a devilish climb, the discovery of the village of Sandillani, before arriving at Chairo, where our journey ends. Walking time: 4h. Elevation gain: +200m / -900m. Altitude: 2000m. We travel by transport to the small haven of peace that is the village of Coroico. You spend the night at the Sol y Luna hotel.
day 17
Coroico - Chulumani
We set off in a 4x4 to meet the coffee growers, who have managed to make the most of their land and move away from the non-sustainable and intensive production of coca, which is so popular in the area. We cross fields of coffee and coca, and talk with the producers of Chulumani. We are welcomed by Lucie and Oscar in their family home, in the middle of the orange trees.
day 18
Chulumani - La Paz
Upon waking, the atmosphere is peaceful. It is already warm. With a glass of sweet lemon or papaya juice in hand, we have breakfast with a view of the valley and the Andes in the distance. We get back on the road to head up towards the Cordillera. The green landscapes dry out, gradually giving way to the mineral ambiance of the Cordillera. We pass through the Totora Pampa valley and skirt the foothills of Illimani and Mururata, imposing glaciers, emblems of La Paz. Then, the city of La Paz is revealed, this crater that stretches as far as the eye can see. We cross it through the southern zone to climb back into the bustle of the center. You spend the night at the Casa del Monticulo.
day 19
La Paz - El Alto Airport
Your driver will pick you up at your hotel and take you to the airport.