The must-sees of Bolivia

Trip Description

Accomodation

Stay program

• day 1

  El Alto Airport - La Paz

  

  We arrive in La Paz via El Alto, enough to immediately plunge into a crowd and a complete change of scenery! We jump into a taxi to cross this giant market and stop at the first cable car station. We gain some height to realize what La Paz really looks like: this city spread out in a sort of immense crater. Small colorful “casas” as far as the eye can see, markets everywhere... The cabins fly above this chaotic, lively atmosphere, with the snow-capped peaks of Huayna Potosi and Illimani (iconic Bolivian glaciers over 6000 m high) as a backdrop. We stop at Sopocachi, just a stone's throw from the bustling center. We love strolling through the quiet streets of this little bohemian neighborhood of La Paz. We find little shops, small bars that are worth stopping at. We will have a coca mate at the Sopocachi market, the sacred and traditional drink, the remedy for altitude sickness. And the yapa, that is, the little extra offered by the vendor, because here you always “yapa” a good customer. You spend the night at Casa del Monticulo.

• day 2

  La Paz

  

  We set off for a day of exploration in La Paz. We walk through the streets of Sopocachi, heading towards the center, with a short "fresh fruit juice" break at the Sopocachi market and a "salteña" along the way. The salteña is the 11am snack for Bolivians: it's a small pastry filled with chicken or beef in its juice. The challenge: to eat it, without cutlery, without getting stained... A mixed and contrasting city, La Paz is the perfect sample of an entire country. From the market district, full of colors and smells, you cross a few streets to find yourself in the heart of the historic district, now a business center. Two worlds that coexist 200 meters apart and whose only common point is the permanent and noisy chaos that characterizes them. We have a mate de coca, or some leaves to chew on Sagarnaga. We cross the Mercado de Las Brujas, where we buy a miniature to please the Ekeko, the benevolent god of abundance. Tradition has it that you project all your hopes into the purchase of the coveted miniature object, which will then be ritualized. (Discover the legend of the Ekeko) In the historic district, we take calle Jaen, one of the last colonial streets in the city, with its cobblestones and colorful houses. We take the time to push open every door to discover small inner courtyards, galleries, the museum of musical instruments, and we meet Rosario. She tells us about culture, clothing fashion, traditions, and invites us to try on her many cholita skirts (apparently 7 layered), sharing all their secrets with us. We have lunch at one of the communal tables in the market, among the Paceños. The choice of dishes is rich, and the smells of grilled meat with Aji sauce mix with those of fried foods and other spicy soups. We head to El Alto by cable car, flying over houses as far as the eye can see, peeking above inner courtyards, terraces where traditional clothes and dance costumes are drying... On the cliffside, shamans are perched, leading offering ceremonies to Pachamama. Shall we venture to one of them to have our coca leaves read? We go back down through the general cemetery. Far from being scary or sad, this unique cemetery is lively, colored by large mural paintings and decorated by the families of the deceased. Here, death is celebrated: people sing, dance, and make offerings to honor their departed loved ones. This visit allows us to better understand Bolivian culture regarding its dead. We then pass through Calle de Los Andes, the street of carnival costume makers, shops, and tailors. You could watch for hours the meticulous work of the Diablada mask makers. Further down, towards the market, you find custom hats, all kinds of jewelry, and cholita skirts. We hop into a collectivo to head back to Sopocachi. For dinner, we will provide you with a list of restaurant suggestions, of all styles. In Bolivia, we are lucky to have varied and quality foods, and we eat well. It's simple, here products from the Amazon, the Yungas (tropical fruits and vegetables), products from the Altiplano (potatoes, quinoa, llama), meat from Beni, and products from Lake Titicaca all come together. The meal can be accompanied by a good local wine from Tarija with a high-altitude grape variety. You spend the night at Casa del Monticulo.

• day 3

  La Paz - Copacabana - Yumani

  

  Meet at the general cemetery early; rather than a private transfer, we suggest you take a collective bus towards Copacabana. The journey thus takes on a new dimension, the trip itself becomes an excursion. After the traffic jams leaving La Paz and El Alto, we set off on a bumpy road, Andean music blasting in our ears, the smell of chewed coca leaves in our nostrils. On our left, in clear weather, the Sajama, the highest point in Bolivia at 6542 meters above sea level; on our right, the Cordillera of the Andes. Halfway, the lake begins to reveal itself. We arrive at Tiquina, where we get off the bus to cross the mouth by boat. On the dock, we are tempted by small fried ispis from the lake, spiced with aji (spicy sauce). Be careful not to lose sight of our bus which crosses on its own; if we get carried away, it could leave without us. Just under an hour left before arriving in Copacabana. On the main square, we can choose for lunch between lake trout with butter, garlic, tomato, or llajwa – the essential spicy sauce of the Andes... or even a fresh fish ceviche with tiger's milk and sautéed corn. We then board a lancha to the village of Yampupata. From there, we set off on a hike to the village of Sampaia (3-4 h maximum), along the ridge, crossing small villages and with breathtaking views of the lake, the hinterland, the Andes, and Peru. We then reach the Island of the Sun. It is the largest island in the lake. It is also the one with the most temples and sacred places. Finally, it is a place steeped in legends, still very present in the minds of its inhabitants. You spend the night at the Ecologe La Estancia hotel.

• day 4

  Yumani - Chuquinapi

  

  We set sail aboard a catamaran, built by young people from the local community of Santiago de Huata, on the other side of the lake. The crossing of the lake is peaceful, at the rhythm of the wind, giving us time to admire the Island of the Moon and the Royal Cordillera in the background. We spend the evening in Chuquiñapi, a small, quiet village, far from the crowds.

• day 5

  Chuquinapi - Tuni

  

  We head towards the heart of the Cordillera, up to Tuni. We spend two days welcomed by the Quispe family. Jaime and Marisol host us at their home in Tuni, an Aymara hamlet located at 4400 m altitude, inhabited by about ten families. The ancestral Aymara traditions are still very present here, and the Tuni community is committed to keeping them alive and sharing them. No staging, no costumes: the Quispe open their doors to us and let us live a few days with them, in all simplicity, with the Pachamama at the center of beliefs and offerings. You spend the night in the Tuni inn-ecolodge.

• day 6

  Tuni - La Paz - Uyuni

  

  We let ourselves live to the rhythm of the Cordillera. We follow Vicky to the village school. Why not try an Aymara language class? The transmission of ancestral traditions also happens through the teaching of this language, still spoken in the villages. We then offer ourselves as kitchen assistants with Denys and Marisol. The specialty here is Huatia, a dish cooked in an oven dug into the earth. One of the main foods is chuño, a dehydrated potato. On the Altiplano, the soil and climate only allow some communities to harvest potatoes once a year. As a preservation method, the Andeans use, during the coldest months, a dehydration process to extract the starch from the potatoes. The taste is... peculiar, but the method is ingenious and we would do well to learn the technique. To complete our Andean meal, we go fishing in the icy rivers and lagoons, rich in trout. We take part in different tasks depending on the season and needs: making straw mattresses that will be sold in the area, collecting animal droppings for fuel in the houses. Shearing the llamas is a real challenge, a bit physical, with the first challenge being to immobilize the animal. With the spun wool, we can learn weaving and making warm clothes, which are very welcome in the mountains. We hit the road towards La Paz. Your driver takes you to the bus station. A new stage of our adventure awaits us. We are heading for the Great Bolivian South. We take a night bus towards Uyuni. Reclining seats, a small snack, more comfortable than a plane and less CO2 emissions!

• day 7

  Uyuni - Guadalupe

  

  Our expedition driver-guide welcomes us upon arrival. After a good breakfast, we set off for 5 days of expedition in a 4x4, heading towards magical regions, as yet unexplored and mysterious. We start the day with an important place in the history of Bolivia: the old Uyuni Maestranza, which is now a train cemetery. The remains of locomotives from the late 19th century are preserved there; these were the ones that transported ore from the region to Chilean ports. We then enter the Lípez region and head south, towards the Ciudad del Encanto. We explore the nooks and crannies of this geological formation that looks like a giant sand construction. As we continue on our way, we pass through San Pablo de Lípez, which is one of those places you wouldn't expect to be inhabited, as it seems so lost in the vast, empty, and arid expanse of South Lípez. But we will be able to have some lovely encounters there. Travel time: 6 to 7 h You are warmly welcomed at the Hospedaje de la Roma by Marina, a resident of this community of 3 families (basic comfort: no hot water). We recommend that you bring a sleeping bag with you.

• day 8

  Guadalupe - Quetena

  

  We set out to discover the Ciudad de Roma. One feels very small in front of this natural spectacle of geological formations of all shapes. In the midst of this very mineral landscape, we also pass by colorful lagoons, including the Laguna Celeste at the foot of the Uturuncu volcano (6,012 meters in altitude), which still emits fumaroles with sulfur smells. We come across vicuñas, vizcachas, ñandús, and pink flamingos, sheltered by the Eduardo Avaroa nature reserve. Travel time: 8h We spend the night at the Doña Braulia inn. In the absence of heating and hot water, we recommend that you bring a sleeping bag with you.

• day 9

  Quetena - Siloli Desert

  

  We drive due west, heading towards the Laguna Colorada. Its intense brick-red coloration is due to the presence of phytoplankton that reacts to sunlight. Then, we continue the excursion towards the Sol de Mañana geysers (4850 m), located in a volcanic crater emitting sulfur vapors and jets of hot water ranging from 10 to 50 meters high. We make a stop at the Polques hot springs before moving along the Laguna Salada and crossing the Dali desert (so named because the landscapes recall some of the master's paintings). We arrive late in the morning at Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde, at the foot of the Juriques and Licancabur volcanoes (5960 m). We then witness a curious phenomenon: the wind picks up and Laguna Verde takes on a spectacular emerald green hue. Return to Laguna Colorada at the end of the afternoon. The track continues through the superb landscapes of the Siloli desert and its famous "stone tree," where a few viscachas sometimes venture. Travel time: 7h We spend the night at the Hotel del Desierto. (Availability for double-matrimonial room not guaranteed)

• day 10

  Siloli Desert - San Juan

  

  Heading north, we follow the Chilean border along the "route of the jewels": Laguna Honda, Ch’arkota, Hedionda, and Cañapa, sanctuaries for 3 varieties of pink flamingos. Stop at the viewpoint of the Ollagüe volcano (5,865 m), still active, which also hosts one of the highest sulfur mines in the world. Then, we cross the small Salar de Chiguana, at the foot of the Tomasamil volcano (5,900 m), before reaching the village of San Juan, where there are spectacular mummies of the "lords of Lipez" and a small museum dedicated to them. Travel time: 6 to 7 h We spend the night at the La Cabaña de Sal inn.

• day 11

  San Juan - Uyuni - Colchani - Uyuni

  

  To finish our journey today, we set out to discover the largest salt desert in the world! From San Juan, two hours on the track allow us to reach the Salar de Uyuni (3,650 m). The sensation is unique: the horizon has no limits and the immensity invites silence. We drive across this immense white expanse to reach Incahuasi Island. This surprising volcanic island, lost in the heart of the salar, offers an unobstructed view of the salt desert and the surrounding volcanoes. It is covered with stromatolites (limestone structures synthesized by fossilized bacterial colonies, the first traces of life on Earth) and giant cacti. In the afternoon, we continue crossing the Salar: heading east towards the city of Uyuni. Before arriving, we stop to visit a salt operation and the old salt hotel built on the surface of the Salar. Travel time: 6h To end the day in style, we enjoy a unique moment: we admire the sunset over the salar while tasting a South American wine. You spend the night at the Tambo Aymara hotel.

• day 12

  Uyuni - Potosi

  

  We take a bus towards Potosi. Marlène welcomes us and will immerse us in her past as a silver mine worker in Potosi, the former source of wealth for the European continent. We have lunch at her relatives' home, for a true glimpse into the daily life of these workers from the depths of Cerro Rico, the main mine of Potosi. A visit to the Casa de la Moneda plunges us into the colonial era and the history of this silver city. It is in this beautiful colonial-style residence, now converted into an important historical museum, that the currency of the Spanish crown was minted until the 19th century. The Casa de la Moneda is also a testament to the prosperous past of the "Imperial City" where the most important silver deposits of the New World were found. Following this discovery, Potosi became the main supplier of silver to Spain. Note: the Casa de la Moneda is closed on Sunday afternoons and on Mondays. You spend the night at the Colonial hotel.

• day 13

  Potosi - Sucre

  

  As in Eduardo Galeano's story, "The Open Veins of Latin America," we are immersed in the reality of this city plundered of its wealth. We talk with the miners and slip into the tunnels of the Cerro Rico mines. We take a bus to reach the white city of Sucre, another major site of colonization. You spend the night at the La Selenita guesthouse.

• day 14

  Sugar

  

  We meet Céline, a French woman who has been living in Bolivia for over 10 years. She shares with us her daily life as well as her love for her adopted city, its culture, and its history. We start with a traditional cooking class. We are taken to the city market to buy peanuts, vegetables, meats, and other spices to prepare the famous Bolivian Sopa de Mani. We wander through stalls filled with all kinds of fruits and vegetables. We chat with the caseritas and have a small juice. We then take our places in the kitchen to slice the onions, cook the meat over low heat, blend the peanuts, sauté the vegetables... The secret of the Sopa lies in the noodles, which are toasted before being cooked, and in the llajwa sauce, a spicy sauce that accompanies absolutely all Andean dishes. We follow Céline through the white-architecture alleys of Sucre, listening to her stories about the city's key role in the history of Bolivian liberation. Between two monuments, we stop by her craft shop, reflecting the city's bohemian atmosphere. To end our visit well, we share a small craft beer in one of our guide's favorite spots. You spend the night at the guesthouse La Selenita.

• day 15

  Sucre - La Paz

  

  Christophe, a Frenchman who has been living in Bolivia for years, honorary consul of France, driver, local liqueur producer... is our guide for the day. He shows us his favorite places in the Chuquisaqueña countryside and its Quechua culture. We have lunch with his adoptive family in Candelaria and discover the secrets of weaving, a local craft specialty. Your driver takes you to the bus station. We take a night bus to La Paz. Reclining seats, a small snack, more comfortable than a plane and less CO2 emissions!

• day 16

  Peace

  

  Your driver will pick you up at the bus station. Bolivian dances are a true representation of the diversity of Bolivian culture. Carnival is the time to abolish hierarchies, to overcome taboos, and to express, behind the masks, all those hidden worlds so present in beliefs. Whether it is Carnival season, Gran Poder (La Paz festival), or the start of the university year, you are sure to come across groups of young Paceños rehearsing in parks or on city squares, reinvented as dance grounds for the occasion. Tempted by the idea of joining a Tinku, Diablada, or Llamerada rehearsal? A group of dancers will proudly teach us the steps and the meaning of their choreography. For the exercise, endurance is key. At almost 4,000 meters altitude, even after 15 days of stay, the lack of oxygen is still felt. We go down to the southern zone for lunch on a terrace. Different atmosphere, different city: you should know that you gain 1 degree every 100 meters of elevation change. So, the calculation is simple: you enjoy 4 extra degrees by going to the southern zone. The terraces there are pleasant and less noisy, the cafes are stylish, and the streets are quieter. We enjoy the small parks where children play to stroll, the modern shops, or we go to the Mall, a large shopping center, for a taste of American life. You also find the beautiful neighborhoods there, secure condominiums, with incredible houses, some of which are worthy of the famous neighborhoods of Hollywood. You leave the hustle and bustle of the business district and find a certain sweetness of life. You spend the night at the Casa del Montículo.

• day 17

  La Paz - Coroico - La Paz - Sajama

  

  For your last three days of exploration in Bolivia, we suggest you choose how to end your trip. Dare the unexpected, you can decide on the spot. Option: Want warmth and tropical nature? Meeting coca producers in the Yungas We descend from our heights towards the pre-tropical region of the Yungas. Here, you find warmth and lush green vegetation. We leave La Paz and climb up to nearly 4,600 meters in altitude, to La Cumbre. This is where the mountain bike descent begins. From there, we leave the Altiplano to enter the Amazon basin. From now on, we will lose 100 meters in altitude and gain 1.6 degrees every 10 minutes. We leave behind the llamas, the snow, the rocks, to reach Yolossa, water, mangoes, coffee, parrots, monkeys, at 1,200 meters in altitude. Green replaces gray, it’s an explosion of colors, scents, and oxygen. This road is the only one connecting the Andean capital to the Amazonian producers. In case of social conflict, blocking it with a few trucks means stopping the transport of goods (meat, citrus, coca, coffee) to the capital. Control of this route is essential. Note: the descent is done in a group service / English-speaking guide. You spend the night at the Sol y Luna hotel. Option: Want wide open spaces at the foot of volcanoes on the Chilean border? Trek and expedition in Sajama Park We head towards Sajama National Park. On the way, we discover the history of the Carangas region, passing by its chullpas (burial towers) and its colonial church. We enter the park, up to the village of Sajama, nestled between three imposing volcanoes: Sajama, the highest peak in Bolivia (6,542 m); and the twins, Parinacota (6,348 m) and Pomerape (6,240 m). We encounter the only inhabitants of the area: alpacas, vicuñas, and ñandus (ostrich cousins) when luck is on our side. You spend the night at the Oasis inn.

• day 18

  Coroico - Puente Villa - Sajama

  

  Option: Want warmth and tropical nature? Meeting the coca producers in the Yungas We go to meet the coffee growers, who have managed to make the most of their land and move away from the non-sustainable and intensive coca production, so popular in the area. We cross coffee and coca fields and talk with the producers of Coripata. You will be welcomed in a small inn in Puente Villa. Option: Want wide open spaces at the foot of the volcanoes on the Chilean border? Trek and expedition in Sajama Park We explore the park, its geysers, and its lagoons. We go to Laguna Sorapata, a place with preserved biodiversity. We will notably encounter giant coots, aquatic birds that build their nests on the lagoon, like large floating platforms made of algae and grass. We take time for a break at the end of the day to bathe in the natural hot springs. The outside air is cool, with a light wind, classic Sajama weather. The hot spring water steams at the surface, we are surrounded by the three snow-capped peaks, there is not a sound... It is one of those rare moments of total exclusivity. Walking time: 4h. Elevation gain: +600m/-600m. Altitude: 4,960m. You spend the night at the Oasis inn.

• day 19

  Puente Villa - La Paz - Sajama - La Paz

  

  Option: Want warmth and tropical nature? Meeting with coca producers in the Yungas We head back up to the high plateaus, passing through Yanacachi, the commercial crossroads of the region. Fresh Amazonian products are exchanged for potatoes and quinoa from the Altiplano. Option: Want wide open spaces at the foot of the volcanoes on the Chilean border? Trek and expedition in Sajama Park We walk to the Huaña Khota lagoon, where pink flamingos sometimes mingle with the ducks and wild geese, the owners of the place. We continue to go around the Sajama volcano and its eternal snows, up to the historic village of Tomarapi. We return to La Paz at the end of the day. You spend the night at the Casa del Montículo.

• day 20

  La Paz - El Alto Airport

  

  Your driver will pick you up at your hotel and take you to the airport.